One thing I didn’t realize when I set about grafting the ARC ONE system onto my Carrera Go!!! track was that the controllers only had two wires, and thus no motor braking would be possible. The track is so short, and the turns so tight, you really do need the brakes, especially if the car has no magnets.
After a little searching, I found that these controllers could be purchased new for about 6 bucks. Cracking one open to see what it would take to add a braking contact and wire seemed pretty low risk.
Behold, a pretty basic wire wound resistor controller.
When the trigger is in the released position, it is held against a plastic stop that contacts the copper wiper. This is exactly what I was hoping for. Adding the brake contact could be accomplished by adding a piece of metal between the wiper and the stop, and running the wire out.
A quick measurement of the stop indicated a piece of 5mm OD brass tube could be cut to length and put into place.
In order to get a good bond via super glue, I crushed the tube down a bit.
Slip over stopper and add glue:
I opened up the exit from the handle to make sure the wires weren’t being crushed.
Reassemble, and add whatever connector to the new wire you are comfortable with. I like Anderson PowerPole connectors, although I haven’t totally decided how I’m going to implement these extra connections. This wire just needs to be connected to the ground on the low voltage DC side of the track set.
The only hang up I hit was that the two controllers I received were wired opposite of one another. In normal operation, it doesn’t matter where the two wires connect to inside the controller. One just needs to be on the wiper and the other on the resistor. However, once you want to ground the wiper, it suddenly matters which has 15Volts and which is just running out to the motor. You want the 15 Volt wire going to the resistor, and you want the other wire on the trigger/wiper. By luck, the first controller was wired as desired, and everything worked. I didn’t bother checking the second controller, and of course it was different. When I hooked everything up, the ARC ONE browned out, as the power supply was shorted to ground. So, I had to open the second controller back up and swap the wires in the handle. They are just attached with screws through eyelets, so this isn’t difficult.
I now have a completely functioning analog system with brakes along with computer timing and scoring for $40.
The original build of the End Raceway utilized a scratch built Arduino based timing system that I had constructed for a previous track. The initial build used stock Carrera Go thumb style controllers, which meant that the track was still set up for the “boost” feature. I was also still using the stock power supply and power base, which meant the current to the cars was limited to a very tiny amount (less than 0.1 Amps).
I began looking for solutions, and hatched a plan to scratch build a track power box, with independent lane voltages, drivers stations with call buttons, and TruSpeed PWM controllers. I even started acquiring some of the odds and ends. The plan was to have this box hang off the side of the track, and it would just be unplugged from the track and carried separately for transport. I had also continued to improve the software in my timing system box, and had a list of additional features to add (start lights, louder buzzer, etc).
For different reasons, I started looking at the Scalextric ARC offerings, and stumbled across the ARC ONE system. Adjustable sensitivity wired controllers, two sets of in slot IR sensors per lane, and of course Bluetooth connectivity and an app for timing and scoring seemed like a pretty incredible feature list for under $40. The only hurdle would be grafting that hardware onto a piece of Carrera Go track. What could go wrong?
The track and track table weren’t designed with this in mind. In order to fit the control box inside the frame of the table, it will have to be mounted separately from the track piece. Removing the screws from the bottom of the ARC ONE base separates the control from the track. There were also a few pieces of tape in there holding the wires in place.
I want to be able to connect and disconnect the control box from the track, so I cut out a pretty large access opening in the back of the housing:
Of course, the lane spacing is narrower on Carrera Go track than Scalextric 1/32 track. So, the PCBs holding the sensors had to be modified. I took a few measurements and concluded I needed to remove a little over 0.813″ of width. I used a metal cutting disc on a Dremel to make the cuts.
In order to reconnect the two halves, first I used a piece of duct tape to hold the two parts in the correct position relative to each other. Then, I flipped the board to have the green side up. I had to put some cocktail toothpicks underneath to support the board (instead of the IR sensors).
I used a small bit of sandpaper to remove the “green” coating on that side of the board, in just the areas I wanted to solder jumper wires. The copper layer is very thin so don’t get to heavy handed here. For the pieces of wire, I used individual strands from some stranded 22 gauge wire I had on hand.
One side is complete in the picture above. The other side complete in the picture below:
From here, I put a layer of thin CA glue all over the exposed PCB and the wires/soldering. This should provide a basic level of moisture protection. Then, I mixed up some two part epoxy and encased the whole area.
Because I intended to mount the control box a bit separated from the sensors, I spliced in 6″ extensions into all of the wires. The picture below shows one sensor wire completed with the loose wires ready to go into the other.
Next, I chose to do the cutting on the plastic track pieces. I went ahead and removed the metal rails and made the cuts on the plastic first. Then, made the cuts on the rails with them loose. I don’t know if this was necessary, but it made all of the cutting feel more controlled. I just used a drill to make some starting holes, then used a spiral upcut bit on the Dremel to hog out the rest. Not terribly pretty, but it came out okay in the end.
A reference view of the backside shown below:
Loose rails ready to be cut:
I checked the fit a few times as I was cutting.
Sensors in Place:
Sensors in place, another view. My handywork with the Dremel wasn’t great, but hopefully I’ll be able to fill/hide some of this later.
I had to extend the power wires as well. I just soldered them directly to the track. I’ve done this several times and never had an issue.
Here is how things sit right now, I have the control box just sort of hanging, and have been experimenting with the App side of things. I intend to mount the control with the connectors pointing straight up (perpendicular to the race surface) near where the wires are laying across the table top. This way, the module doesn’t overhang the table and will be protected in transit.
Once I finish up the installation, I’ll post some “final” pictures, but this was far enough along I thought I would share.
This is a pretty “low buck” option to upgrade a Carrera Go!!! track with reasonably performing Timing and Scoring. I will say, the hardware is really let down by the software/app side of things. The Scalextric ARC app is completely unusable. The Magic app is functional, but I haven’t figured out some of the quirks yet. It is just a shame that it has to be that way, as I think this system had a lot of potential to engage a younger crowd and perhaps people new to slot car racing in general.Â
When the Combiner Wars series of toys really got going, and they came out with Motormaster, we had to have it to complete the set. The toy itself is pretty good, with great detail and range of motion.
However, compared to the G1 figure there was a glaring omission. The new figure had no trailer.
The transformation of the G1 figure was surprisingly complex, with the trailer being a direct part of the robot mode. In the case of the Combiner Wars version, there was already an Ultra Magnus in production that used a similar mold to Motormaster, and it was hard to imagine a way to take this mold and integrate a trailer similar to the way the G1 toy worked.
I previously owned a G2 Optimus Prime based “Black Convoy” or “Scourge” figure, and I thought the alt mode for the trailer was interesting. I liked the idea of a tanker truck in general. So, the challenge became to come up with a trailer Motormaster could pull that transformed into an interesting missile launch base.
My printer bed has a footprint of 8″ wide by 10″ long. In order to keep the production simple, I decided the trailer could only be about 9″ long. The trailer is a bit under-scale compared to the figure, but it was at the upper limit of what I thought I reasonably had time to build.
Another requirement I placed on the design was that I wanted Motormaster or another Stunticon to be able to drive up into the base mode of the trailer.
Stepping through the transformation, the carriage for the wheels flips out from under the main tanker, which opens up along two fill length hinges.
The main missile is set into place by the robotic arm:
The smaller missile launchers on their own articulated arms fold out of the base:
The access ramps fold down, which are spaced for the figures wheels:
Motormaster pulled all the way into position:
Another Decepticon in the main bay:
Magnets hold the launch area shut in alt mode.
None of these series of figures was really designed with pulling a trailer in mind. The snap fit which holds the legs together is not strong enough to deal with any real pulling of the trailer. This figure needs a reinforcing clip that holds the legs together more tightly.
I would also like to come up with a license plate for the trailer, similar to the G1 toy.
Overall, this was a fun project. If I were to revisit it, I would probably go ahead and make the whole thing larger to improve the scale appearance. I’d also relocate the smaller fuel tanks to the underside of the trailer in the alt mode(their location on top of the tanker was a request from my son, who at the time was quite young). He has pretty well grown out of these toys now, perhaps I could steal this back from him and give it a proper paint job?
In order to make the track suitable for no-mag cars, I really needed full borders around the track. In the past, I had built a track with custom designed 3D printed borders. This was a tedious affair, as it required many prints. Also, in areas where the track runs come close to each other there were odd places that needed filled in that the regular borders I had designed wouldn’t fit.
On this go around, I decided to use 6mm EVA foam (cosplay foam) from Dick Blick art supply. This layout required two full rolls.
Here are all of the rough cut pieces set in place.
I haven’t used this foam before, so I wasn’t sure what adhesive to use. I tested all of the adhesives I have on hand, and ended up buying a can of Weldwood contact cement. This stuff is nasty, and will actually melt the track itself on contact. It works very well with the foam. Here are all the things I tested:
I really agonized over tracing and cutting the pieces. I spent way to much time on that. The foam is pretty forgiving and will flex and stretch a bit which can compensate for errors. Here is the track with all of the foam glued down.
I did have a small bit of trouble with the transition to the front ramp. It ended up lining up right on a track joint, and was very sharp. I ended up having to shim the transition upward to smooth it out a bit and keep it from punting cars.
All of the turn pieces are glued to the wood with Shoe Goo. Also, the straights that are on the ramps are glued down. I cut the assembly plastic tabs and the metal tabs from the rails off in two places so that the other two straight sections can be lifted straight up to allow for swapping parts. I did this on the front stretch to accommodate putting in the teeter totter and I did it on the other straight to accommodate taking a part in and out that has power wires soldered to it for hooking up my own power supply. I still need to come up with a way to hold these parts to the track rigidly such that the whole track can be moved with them in place.
Where I made these cuts, I soldered lengths of wire onto each rail and I used Wago lever nuts to make the wire connections under the table. I found an assortment of sizes of these 222 connectors on Amazon and am really happy with them: https://www.wago.com/us/wire-splicing-connectors/splicing-connector/p/222-413
I did a quick test with my recently returned no mag proxy cars and the new layout runs great. The cars can slide out the rear and the EVA foam lets the tires slide. Crucially, the cars stay in the slot, even with the tail wagging. I plan on painting the foam and track at some point, so I expect to be able to change the traction of both surfaces, but just as it is the track is runable!
A small update on the track build. A little bit of carpentry goes a long way.
Eliminating all of the little plastic risers and giving the track something solid to sit on makes a big difference. Even with the track not secured to the table, it is so much more stable.
I was also able to increase the clearance of the overpass a bit:
That semi tractor just barely clears.
I did discover a small problem with the layout itself that needed addressed. As the track originally sat, the long downhill back stretch was right against the oncoming lane of the inside loop. Wide cars, like the Corvette tended to get wedged under the incline! Not good.
To resolve this, I had to tweak a few pieces and ended up putting more strain into the plastic track than I would have liked (about half a track width). It is tolerable, and once I secure everything to the table shouldn’t be a problem.
Here is what the pieces I used look like in the track planning software:
When I “pull” the start/finish line piece down to the “long” straight it pulls the loops apart and generates the desired clearance.
If I’d made the table 34″ wide instead of 32″ wide, I could have used a different combination of parts that had zero strain and deliberately spaced the loops. Oh well.
My track length comes out to 6.91 meters, and the lanes are equal due to the cross overs.
There were a few issues with the folding table setup. One of them was that it wasn’t wide enough to have any “breathing room”. Another was that with no side skirts or outer walls, cars were hitting the concrete pretty frequently.
I could have chosen to build up from the folding table a small extension, fences, etc. However, I’d prefer something easier to move around. So, with that, I built a simple track table. The main sheet is 1/2″ plywood that is 32″ wide and 72″ long.
The lower framing is just pine 1×3 material. The legs were purchased from “Rural King”, and are made in America! The online reviews for the Chinese legs on Amazon or Home Depot were pretty dismal. FedEx delivered them to my house.
The upper walls are a mix of 1×8 pine and a strip of Plywood. The far corners are tied together with 2×2 cleats. It’s all joined with wood screws.
A little breathing room, but overall a similar layout. In order to even out the lane lengths, I opted for a set of cross overs. My son loves these, and they certainly make racing exciting. If things are too exciting in the long run, I can always remove them.
The size and weight of this are so far quite manageable. I can easily fit it in the back of my SUV, and the weight is light enough I can put it up on end and carry it in and out of the basement alone.
I also cleaned a few things up in this area and hung a new shop light over the table. The lighting makes a huge difference.
I have dabbled off and on with making a basic Arduino based slot car track timing system. I was dabbling with it again, and have it working pretty well. As luck would have it though, I didn’t currently have a track setup at home! This is a problem that must be resolved! As is true for most people, space is always at a premium. The is one reason I prefer 1/43 scale slot cars. As I looked around the basement, I spotted an open area that a folding table could be setup in unobtrusively, and set about doing what I could for a track:
I wanted something fun to drive on, and not too technical. Given the space, all of the turns are R1, with the exception of a single turn on the outer loop that is R2.
The biggest issue with this layout is that it is a double loop, compounding the lane length difference instead of reducing it.
However, this proved to me that I could come up with something interesting to build in this space, which is all I was after.
There are a few other odds and ends to point out on this toy that I haven’t addressed.
It isn’t unusual to see a toy with a broken barrel on the turret:
This part is pretty complicated and the barrel is pretty thin. A ShapeWays part could be made, but I don’t know if it is really worth the trouble. A new barrel could be fashioned from styrene and painted without too much trouble.
One of the main culprits in there being so many broken walking drums on these toys is that the release levers the push through the tracks are difficult to discover:
The molded in text of “push” is difficult to see on the toy. Also, it isn’t immediately obvious what needs to be pushed on.
When the toy is fully assembled you can not open the lever all the way like this, but if you could it would make it more obvious what was going on. This lever is directly disengaging the drive pin. If you don’t push the lever and just jam the track back in, a tremendous amount of stress is placed on the walking drums.
Occasionally, you’ll come across one of these with the lever missing. Again, I just haven’t bothered making a replacement. If someone reached out to me asking for it, it could be done.
Well, that is all the electrons I think are worth spilling on this topic. This was an impressive toy in its day, and is certainly an interesting example of a large number of design techniques.
Each Omega Supreme toy came with a small parts tree of 6 bright yellow “shields” which hold together the halves of the two pieces of leg armor on the toy. These clips were easy to loose, and indeed fetch a princely sum on eBay today. The geometry of the clips is a little more complicated than a person would want to make by hand. These are a prime candidate for 3D printing.
Do, I measured these, did a few test prints/fit checks with my home printer, and then ordered a set from ShapeWays.
I offer them two different ways on my store. The first is a tree with all 6 shields:
These offer a quick and easy way to complete your figure. The only thing I don’t like about the ShapeWays parts is that when you have them made in a color, it is just a paint. So, when you cut the sprues that hold the parts together, there are white spots left.
Far and away, the most frequently broken parts on an Omega Supreme toy are the drums that drive the walking mechanism. The plastic is a little too thin and brittle, and if the release levers aren’t used correctly it is easy to put way too much force into them in shear when transforming the toy.
This is a shot of the repaired walking drive assembly back in the toy. In the foreground, you can see the pile of broken bits that was left of the old drums.
I measured these parts and have made a parts tree that is on my ShapeWays store. I sell a tree to replace a single drum or a tree to replace both drums. http://shpws.me/RLtL
The parts tree provides replacement plastics for the Drum, the Pin, and the drive housing. Most broken Omega Supreme toys I’ve seen still have the screw, spring, and original pin still captured in the drum. If they are there, great! You can reuse them.
If they are missing, I found suitable replacement parts from McMaster Carr. I really like McMaster Carr. The link for the spring is: https://www.mcmaster.com/9657k601 and the link for the screws is: https://www.mcmaster.com/90380a005.
So, even if your drums are completely wrecked, you can order the printed parts from ShapeWays and the hardware from McMaster and replace them.
Typically, if the original pin is still present, I reuse it instead of the 3D printed pin. The original pin has a smoother surface, and I suspect performs a little better.
Rebuilding the drum is straightforward. Put the pin through the hole in the drum that it fits through (from the inside). Put the spring behind it. Push the drive housing on, and run in the screw. In this picture below, I’m reusing everything except the drive housing. The pin is already in place and the spring is sitting on top.
The drums are just a slip fit onto the square shaft, and are essentially free to fall off until the rest of the toy is reassembled. When putting the driveshaft back together, remember to align the pins 180 degrees away from each other. Otherwise your Omega wont walk, he will just sort of sway.
Halfway done, the other drive housing is badly cracked.
When fiddling with this, there is a metal counterweight piece that tends to just fall out of the toy. It may not be obvious where it came from or how it goes back in. Below is a reference picture.
When putting the shaft back in, make sure the cam that pushes on the metal tabs for the light lines up correctly. Also make sure the gear is making good contact with the driving gear. It is just a press fit on the square shaft, and its position may need adjusted slightly.
From here, just reassemble the toy and you should have a fully functioning Omega Supreme again!
